My Moroccan Journey
🏙️ Marrakech: Arrival & Medina Wander
🏔️ The High Atlas Mountains: 3x4000m Peaks Challenge
🌊 Essaouira: A Coastal Pause
🏜️ The Road to the Sahara: 3 Days to Merzouga
Arrival in Marrakech
What an epic trip. Just over a week somehow felt much longer, maybe because of all the contrasts. There was never a moment of “bored of this view.”
“I’m proud of myself for embracing the unknown solo. The long bus rides into the desert ended with camels waiting to take us to camp, and the early mountain starts after little sleep led to the most magical moments – summiting at sunrise.”
I arrived early on a Saturday and headed to a quiet boutique riad tucked inside the Medina. Welcomed with mint tea and biscuits, after an early flight, it tasted heavenly. Then off to the souks I went. Easily led by the bright colours and the scent of spices I bought things I didn’t need, just for the fun of it. The Medina can feel overwhelming at first, so going early is best if it’s your first visit.
Wandering around in Marrakech felt safe. A bit of street sense goes a long way, choose a riad with good reviews, keep your phone handy for navigation, and stay aware of your surroundings.
That wrapped up my first day in the city. What followed was one of the toughest and most rewarding challenges of the trip. The plan: a 3-day, 3-peak (4,000m) trek, booked with Much Better Adventures. Below, I’ve described each day as stages.
Stage 1: Imlil to Toubkal Refuge
The first stretch was gentle, starting on a paved path that soon turned rocky. Time to pull out the walking poles, something I don’t usually carry but perfect for this terrain. Along the way, we passed tiny villages and makeshift stalls. In the distance stood Sidi Chamharouch, a popular site for spiritual pilgrims. It’s really just a large white-washed boulder, but still fascinating to see and hear about.
The trail could get tricky with mules constantly passing, so stepping toward the mountain was best to avoid a bump. They’re part of the journey though, carrying supplies up to the refuge. After a few hours, the refuge came into view, camouflaged against the mountainside. A mild headache reminded me of the altitude. We claimed bunks in a shared room of twenty, grabbed a quick shower, and settled in for a hearty dinner, the perfect end to the first day.
Stage 2: Toubkal Refuge – The Ouanoukrim Twins (4089m)
Start: 6:30 a.m. / Distance:12km /
Duration: ~5 hrs
This was a big day: two peaks in one go. The morning was cold, so we layered up and set off after breakfast around 6:30 a.m. The climb started gradually but had a few steep sections that got the legs working. The Atlas Mountains stretched out in every direction, their colors changing as the sun moved higher. With clear skies, the views were incredible. I must have said “wow” a dozen times.
We barely met another group, peaceful after the busy Toubkal trail. Even the refuge dog tagged along, sharing bits of our lunch. After summiting the twin peaks, we stopped midway down for sardines and bread, simple and perfect, before dozing in the sun.
By afternoon, we were back at the refuge, fed, rested, and ready for tomorrow’s final ascent: Mt. Toubkal. What a day, completely satisfied.
Stage 3: The Final Ascent: Mt.Toubkal (4167m)
Start:3:30 a.m. / Distance:21.5km / Duration: ~ 9hrs
3 a.m. isn’t a normal time for pancakes and porridge, but we knew we’d need the energy. By 3:30 a.m., we were on the trail, pitch dark, footsteps crunching on gravel, walking poles striking the ground.
Climbing in the dark has its own kind of comfort; you can’t see how steep it is, so you just focus on the next step.
Hours later, the first light broke over the horizon, and there it was: the summit of Mt Toubkal, North Africa’s highest peak. Which instantly brought a smile to my face. A few groups were already there, watching the peaks slowly wake as the sun rose. After a few photos, it was time to descend, a successful summit behind us. I felt proud of our group; everyone had faced their own challenges along the way, but we all made it. By the end of the day, we were back in Imlil, and soon settled into our riad in Marrakech, tired, happy, and sharing one last meal to close the journey.
Essaouira: A Coastal Pause
After the mountains, it was time to take a break, swapping hiking boots for sandals. I went to Essaouira for two nights. The town immediately felt relaxed. Mopeds still buzzed through the narrow streets, but the pace was slower than Marrakech.
I had no big plans, just wandered the medina, strolled the old city walls, and greeted the cats in every sunny spot. I stopped at a few authentic jewellers and picked up beautiful pieces as keepsakes. With so many tempting, reasonably priced rings and bracelets, it was hard to leave.
Essaouira was exactly what I needed after the trek: two calm nights and a whole change of scenery before the next adventure.
🏜️ The Road to the Merzouga Desert
Duration 3-days, 2-nights / Driving time: 10 hrs each way / Cost €150 approx / Travel company: Civitatis
Near the end of my trip, I knew I had to see the desert. Agafay or the Sahara? I chose the Sahara — the classic dunes and booked a 3-day, 2-night trip with Civitatis. Be prepared: it’s a long 10-hour drive each way.
To break up the journey, we stopped at the UNESCO World Heritage Site Aït Benhaddou Kasbah. With our guide, we crossed the dry riverbed and entered the fortified village, winding up narrow paths to the top. Such a worthwhile stop. If you’re a movie buff, you’ll recognise it, Lawrence of Arabia and Game of Thrones were both filmed here.
That night we stayed in a stunning auberge in the Dadès Valley. The next day brought the dramatic Todgha Gorges, unexpected and breathtaking before reaching Merzouga, where a line of camels patiently waited. Once the headscarf was on, I felt like a true desert traveller. Wrapping it properly takes a bit of practice (and a few laughs), but it proved useful when the wind picked up and made for great photos.
Front row seat: I threw my leg over the camel, letting out a small yelp as it rose to its feet. You’ve got to hold tight!
The one-hour ride gave me time to soak in the vastness of the desert, watching my guide in traditional Berber dress steadily lead us to camp. At sunset, I kicked off my sandals and let my feet sink into the soft, reddish-gold sand. We stood in awe as the sun disappeared behind the dunes. Dinner followed, accompanied by music from our hosts, a perfect desert evening.
The next morning, we began the long drive back to Marrakech. A long day, but entirely worth it. I’d absolutely recommend visiting the Sahara and using Civitatis company, thoughtful stops, plenty of food, and smooth organisation throughout. If you can, stay three nights instead of two; an extra day to simply relax in the desert would be heavenly.
Back home now, I can honestly say it was an incredible trip. I’ll return one day to explore more of this country… stay tuned.
⚡ Quick Trip Notes
Atlas Mountains · 3 x 4000m Trek
- ⛰️ 3 days — Ouanoukrim Twins (4,089m) + Mt Toubkal (4,167m) | MuchBetterAdventure
- Rocky trails & sunrise summits.
- This trek requires a good level of fitness.
Essaouira · Coastal Pause
- 🚌 3 hrs from Marrakech | €13 | Supratours bus
- Laid-back medina, ocean air & handmade jewellery.
Merzouga Desert · Road to the Sahara
- 🚐 3 days / 2 nights | ~€150 | Civitatis | 10 hrs each way
- Stops: Aït Benhaddou (UNESCO), Dadès Valley, Todgha Gorges.
- Camel trek, sunset dunes & Berber music under the stars.
- 💡 Tip: Bring snacks, a neck pillow and stay 3 nights if you can for a full desert day.
What I’d Pack Again
- 💧 Salomon Soft Bottle + Filter: clean water anywhere.
- 🏕️ Dry Bag: for hostels, showers & rainy hikes.
