Exploring São Miguel on Two Wheels & Two Feet

Scooter life, hot springs, and unforgettable views.

May again—let’s go.

After months of working away in the city, I knew it was time to reconnect with nature. And there’s no better place for that than São Miguel, Azores. A stunning island bursting with lush landscapes, wild coastlines, and steaming hot springs. This island ticked all the boxes, and then some.

São Miguel is part of the Azores archipelago, a remote group of nine volcanic islands in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean. It’s the largest and most accessible of them all.

Visiting in May was ideal, just before the busy summer season. The weather was a mix of sunshine and the occasional shower, but the lack of crowds made up for the unpredictability. With fewer tourists around, there was no need to overplan. I could roam freely, follow my curiosity, and let the day unfold naturally. That kind of freedom is exactly what I look for when I travel.

With nine islands to explore, I decided to focus on São Miguel and base myself in Ponta Delgada, the island’s lively capital. From there, day trips led me to hidden gems from adventure to relaxation.

Freedom on Two Wheels​

Here’s a little secret: I’d never ridden a motorbike before. But with São Miguel just 65 km long and 15 km wide. hilly and spread out, a scooter felt like the smartest way to explore this volcanic paradise. Public transport is patchy, especially in remote spots, and having my own wheels gave me total freedom to roam without relying on timetables or tours.

I started with a test day (€25/day + a one-time €15 insurance) to make sure I was comfortable. By sunset, I’d already named my scooter Miguel. He wasn’t just transport, he quickly became my travel sidekick.

One of the biggest perks? Flexibility. São Miguel’s microclimates mean it can be sunny in one valley and misty in the next, so being able to pivot plans on the fly was key. Just be sure to check the weather at your destination, not just where you’re starting from.

Plenty of lookout points encouraged spontaneous stops. Renting the bike, navigating unfamiliar roads, and doing it all solo felt like a small win and those are the best kind.

Tip: Scooters are ideal for solo travellers who value spontaneity. But if you’re a couple, travelling with family, or planning several long hikes, a rental car might be a better fit, giving you space for gear and the ability to combine multiple stops in a day.

São Miguel’s Natural Wonders: Hot Springs & Thermal Baths

I quickly learned São Miguel’s secrets: save open-air hikes for those gloriously clear afternoons, and reserve the steamy hot springs for when the skies turn grey. And trust me, there’s no better place to be on a rainy day than soaking in a natural hot spring!

So naturally, I kicked off my trip with a visit to Furnas. Starting at Terra Nostra felt like the perfect introduction, immersing myself in the warm, orange, iron-rich waters was like a full-body reset. It was a slow, earthy cleanse that felt worlds away from city life, followed by a peaceful wander through the stunning botanical gardens and nature parks of Terra Nostra.

Since São Miguel is bursting with volcanic, steamy goodness, here are some of my favourite hot springs and thermal spots on the island:

Poça Dona Beija Hot Springs: These thermal waters hover around 39ºC (102.2°F) and are rich in iron. Surrounded by lush vegetation, it’s such a relaxing experience. Entry costs just €8 per person, and tickets can be bought online, especially recommended during peak season or if you want to book a night visit.

Termas das Caldeiras da Ribeira Grande: For a more local, less touristy vibe, this spot was a favourite. It offers charm and authenticity away from the crowds.

Ponta da Ferraria: Don’t miss this unique ocean-side thermal experience, where hot volcanic spring water meets the cold Atlantic! You can literally float between warm and cool currents. The best time to visit is at low tide when the warm water is strongest, so be sure to check tide tables beforehand.

Piscina de Caloura: This stunning spot offers beautiful views, especially if you stop at Miradouro do Pisão beforehand. After soaking in the thermal pool, don’t miss nearby Bar Caloura, where fresh, simply grilled fish bursts with flavor, a perfect way to end the day.

Hikes That Took My Breath Away​

Okay, so we’ve covered the hot springs and trust me, those are reason enough to visit São Miguel! So, after my fair share of relaxation, I traded my swimsuit for hiking boots and hit the trails. These were the ones that really stuck with me:

Lagoa das Sete Cidades, São Miguel: Twin Lakes in a Volcanic Crater

  • Lagoa das Sete Cidades is one of Portugal’s most iconic natural wonders. This is more than just a hike; it’s an experience! You’re walking along the rim of a massive volcanic crater, with stunning views of the twin lakes below. Plus, there’s a creepy cool abandoned hotel that’s worth exploring (if you dare!).

Lagoa do Fogo

  • This trail was my last hike of the trip. This is perfect if you’re looking for a moderate walk and a great way to say goodbye to the island. The village itself is charming, but the trail takes you to Salto do Prego waterfall – The crown jewel of the hike.I felt like I was hiking through a tropical paradise.

Faial da Terra (Southeast São Miguel)

  • This trail was my last hike of the trip. This is perfect if you’re looking for a moderate walk and a great way to say goodbye to the island. The village itself is charming, but the trail takes you to Salto do Prego waterfall – The crown jewel of the hike.I felt like I was hiking through a tropical paradise.

Scenes from two hikes in the Azores: crater lakes at Lagoa das Sete Cidades and forested trail near Faial da Terra

Whether you’re craving dramatic cliffs, quiet thermal springs, or simply space to breathe, São Miguel offers it all with a calm, unhurried charm.
Sure, it might take a little time to figure out the logistics, planes, ferries, and island schedules but that’s part of the adventure. And once you arrive, it’s more than worth it.

Exploring the Azores by bike
Three contrasting scenes from São Miguel: thermal waters at Caldeira Velha, a forest hike surrounded by trees, and the Monte Palace abandoned hotel