My Moroccan Journey
🏙️ Marrakech: Arrival & Medina Wander
🏔️ The High Atlas Mountains: 3x4000m Peaks Challenge
🌊 Essaouira: A Coastal Pause
🏜️ The Road to the Sahara: 3 Days to Merzouga
Arrival in Marrakech
Just over a week in Morocco felt much longer, perhaps because I packed so much into such a short time.
I’m proud of myself for embracing the unknown solo. Long bus rides into the desert ended with camels waiting to bring us to our campsite, and early mountain starts after little sleep led to magical sunrise summits.
I arrived to Marrakech early on a Saturday and checked into a boutique riad tucked inside the Medina. Welcomed with Mint tea and biscuits after an early flight felt heavenly, then it was off to the souks. First-timers might feel overwhelmed, so go early, and don’t be surprised if you buy things you don’t need!
Travelling solo in Marrakech felt safe. A bit of street sense helps: choose a well-reviewed Riad, keep your phone charged, and carry a power bank. While travelling you’ll rely on maps and quick searches for landmarks or restaurants so make sure you’ve plenty of data. Above all, with so many alleyways stay aware of your surroundings. That wrapped up my first quick intro to Marrakech. Next up, the 3x4000m Atlas Mountains trek with Much Better Adventures, split into three stages.
Stage 1: Imlil to Toubkal Refuge
Distance: 12 km | Duration: ~4.5 hrs | Start: 11:30 a.m.
The first stretch started gently on a paved path before turning rocky. Walking poles came in handy, something I rarely carry but perfect for this terrain. Along the way, we passed tiny villages and makeshift stalls where you can by water and snacks. In the distance, Sidi Chamharouch appeared, a spiritual site for pilgrims. Essentially a large whitewashed boulder, it was still cool to see and hear it’s stories.
The trail got tricky at times, with mules constantly passing. We were reminded to step toward the mountain to avoid bumps. Mules became part of the journey, carrying up supplies. After a few hours, the refuge came into view, camouflaged against the mountainside. It brought a welcome sense of relief, as a mild headache reminded me of the altitude.
Finally, we settled into a shared room of twenty people (mountain life, eh?), grabbed a quick shower and sat down to dinner. I couldn’t help but notice how much care went into every meal, the presentation, the attention to detail. Not something you expect this high up in the mountains.
Stage 2: Toubkal Refuge → Ouanoukrim Twins (4089m)
Distance: 12 km | Duration: ~5 hrs | Start: 6:30 a.m.
This was a big day: two peaks in one go, but we were ready. The morning was cold, so we layered up. The legs were tested on some steep sections. Every time I looked up, the Atlas Mountains seemed to change, their colours shifting as the sun rose. I must have said ‘wow’ a dozen times.
After summiting the twin peaks, we paused midway down for sardines straight from the tin and bread. I loved these moments: pulling out some chocolate from my bag, sharing nuts and treats with the group. We were maybe a little too tired to talk, so we just lay in the sun, dozing and soaking it all in. It’s simple and raw, and what feeds my soul, it’s how I want to spend my free time. Connecting with strangers and nature. I just love it. By afternoon, back at the refuge and pretty exhausted from today’s climb, I just lay on my bed, trying to sleep but not quite managing it. At least I was resting.
The refuge had little Wi-Fi, so you’re forced to disconnect and really engage with what’s around you. That’s the whole point: offline and present, a chance to clear your mind.
Stage 3: Final Ascent — Mt Toubkal (4167m)
Distance: 21.5 km | Duration: ~9 hrs | Start: 3:30 a.m.
3 a.m. isn’t a normal time for pancakes and porridge, but we knew we’d need the fuel. By 3:30 a.m., we were on the trail, pitch dark, footsteps crunching on gravel, walking poles striking the ground. Climbing in the dark has its own quiet comfort, you can’t see how steep it is, so all you do is focus on the next step.
Hours later, after a few stops along the challenging ascent, we reached the summit of Mt Toubkal, North Africa’s highest peak. “Thank you,” I whispered to myself. A few groups were already there, a busy trail, but the horizon glowed in shades of orange and yellow. As the sun rose, it cast light across the mountains as if they, too, were waking up. So yes, a 3:30 a.m. start is early, but reaching the summit at sunrise was a whole other experience.
It was tempting to pull out the camera, guilty. But I reminded myself to really soak in the view. I’d worked hard to get here, and time at the top is fleeting, so I stayed present. I felt proud of our group. Some faced their own challenges quietly, but we moved as one and worked well as a team. It was now time to head straight back to Imlil, with a quick stop at the refuge along the way.
By the end of the day, back in Imlil and later in our Marrakech riad, we were exhausted, happy, and sharing one last meal to close the journey, a perfect finish.
Essaouira: A Coastal Pause
Distance from Marrakech: 3 hrs | Cost: €13 | Bus company: Supratours
After the mountains, it was time to swap hiking boots for sandals. I spent two nights in Essaouira, and the town immediately felt relaxed. The smell of fish in the air, mopeds still buzzed through narrow streets, but the pace was slower, calmer than Marrakech.
With no fixed agenda, just a break from carrying a backpack after the trek. I wandered the medina treating myself to a few crepes along the way (all those calories burned on the mountains definitely justified it!). Taking my Canon camera with me, I strolled along the old city walls, capturing everyday life. I find it’s nice to have a separate camera rather than using my phone, I pay more attention to what I’m photographing, and it’s refreshing to unplug for a bit. Of course, I also greeted the cats basking in every sunny spot, they’re everywhere and impossible to ignore. I stopped at a few authentic jewellers, including the Centre de la Bijouterie Artisanale Maalem Ali 1908, and came away with a few beautiful keepsakes.
Essaouira was exactly what I needed after the trek: two calm nights and a complete change of scenery before the next adventure….the Sahara desert!
🏜️ The Road to the Merzouga Desert
Duration: 3 days / 2 nights | Driving time: 10 hrs each way | Cost: ~€150 | Company: Civitatis
Near the end of my trip, I knew I had to see the desert. Agafay or the Sahara? I chose the Sahara, the classic dunes. Be prepared: it’s a long 10-hour drive each way, but worth it.
To break up the journey, we stopped at the UNESCO World Heritage Site Aït Benhaddou Kasbah. If you’re a movie buff, you’ll recognise it, scenes from Lawrence of Arabia and Game of Thrones were filmed here. With our guide, we crossed the dry riverbed and entered the fortified village, winding up narrow paths to the top. Such a worthwhile stop and a nice break from sitting in the bus.
That night we stayed in a stunning auberge in the Dadès Valley, far from the city, calm, quiet, and authentically Moroccan. The following day we moved on to the dramatic Todgha Gorges, unexpected and breathtaking, before reaching Merzouga, where a line of camels waited patiently. Everything felt relaxed and unrushed. Once my headscarf was on, I felt like a true desert traveller. Wrapping it properly takes a bit of practice (and a few laughs), but it came into its own when the wind picked up, and made for great photos too.
Front row seat: I threw my leg over the camel, letting out a small yelp as it rose to its feet. You’ve got to hold tight!
The one-hour ride to our campsite gave me time to absorb the vastness of the desert, watching our guide in traditional Berber dress steadily lead us onward. Everything was perfectly timed, we arrived just as the sun began to set. I couldn’t wait to kick off my sandals and let my feet sink into the soft, reddish-gold sand, content as the sun disappeared behind the dunes.
Dinner followed, accompanied by music from our hosts, a perfect desert evening. The campsite itself was surprisingly comfortable, more glamping than camping.
The next morning, we began the long drive back to Marrakech. I’d wholeheartedly recommend visiting the Sahara and booking with Civitatis: thoughtful stops, generous food, and smooth organisation throughout. If you can, stay three nights instead of two, it’s a long way from Marrakech.
Back home now, I can honestly say it was an incredible trip. I’ll return one day to explore more of this country… stay tuned.
Extras I Should Have Packed (and wish I did!)
- Dry bag – my top pick instead of a traditional toiletry bag. Keeps toiletries, electronics, and snacks dry, doubles as a small carry pouch, and is easy to clean. (~1–2L is perfect for essentials.)
- Small binoculars – for spotting wildlife or distant villages in the mountains.
- Eye mask – next time, I’ll bring a travel mask with contoured cups for full blackout; it blocks light much better in shared rooms or on long bus rides.
- Small book – perfect for unwinding when your phone or earphones run out of battery.
- 500ml Reusable Salomon soft water bottle – light to carry in front, complemented by a 1L in your backpack, refillable along the trek.
Getting Around – Morocco Tips for Solo Women
- Book pickups – arrange a ride with your accommodation to skip haggling at stations.
- Tech & navigation – offline Google Maps, Maps.me, Google Translate, and Booking.com are lifesavers. Bring a fully charged power bank.
- Choose your riad wisely – pick a central riad with great reviews and 24/7 friendly staff; solo travel is easier when help is always available.
- Listen to fellow travellers – those near the end of their journey often have the best tips.
- Camera over phone – when safe, put your phone away. Wander, explore, take photos, and soak it all in.
